I think it goes without saying that I truly dig my time on the road with a fevered passion for the new and unexplored. The drive towards scenarios free of direction has led me to some pretty amazing corners of Latin America, allowed me the time and freedom to expand my person and grow through the wisdom and vitality of complete strangers turned close friends. The pure, raw energy of the unexpected and unknown fuel me like the sun, water, and cocaine. What a way to charge the machine year in and year out, but as I said this quick shot to Costa Rica was different.
There wasn't the new this time. There wasn't the uncharted adventure full of question and anticipation, no this time there was exactly what I said: Limited scope, modest goals. So instead of the challenges that face a typical Overbagh, BS, down-south walk-about this trip was an easy breezy seven days to enjoy the company of some of my best friends on earth. A return to the known, the normal, and the expected. Like this-
You have seven days to run loose in CR because your crew back home are a bunch of gangsta ass thugs so..........
You kick La Liga ass for the Championship and party in the streets of San Jose til all hours of the morning
You surf big Caldera and scare the shit out of the Tico and yourself, way too big for either of you
You make a point of keeping it cool in Samara with beers, volleyball, and good friends
You surf Cameronal like usual, but it's big this time, fucking big. Big Monday, bigger Tuesday, and biggest Wednesday
You paddle around in legitimate 12-14' Cameronal and watch your best friend almost die, a very close call
You digest what it all means
You watch said friend live, love, and grow right in front of your eyes, maybe death was near, but the life, o the life!
You eat the best Ceviche, camp, and drink beers in the pure Guanacaste of Bejuco
You eat bocas on the last day your favorite bar in the world is open for business in the location they have been for 20 years
You eat bocas on the first day your favorite bar in the world is open for business in the location they will be for 20 more
You sow the foundations of lasting friendship with beautiful people, beautiful Anita
You run into Galan and Luis, yeah Galan the horse, and he's still a badass. They both are
You surf Samara for the first time in years, you surf Buena Vista in perfect, shit conditions
You drink endless ice-cold Pilsens
You barely make your 9 am bus to San Jose
You sleep the entire way
You rejoin the best group of friends a Gringo could ask for in Escazu for one more night on the town
You share the heartfelt embraces of those individuals that you are proud to say define you
You brown-out the airport experience.... again
You are in love with a life that refuses to slow down
You know that without trips like this to put everything in perspective,
there would be nothing to write about
--Aaaand here's Mick Fanning making our 12-14' day look like a joke--